308 optic question





#1
First of all mods, it’s been a while so if this is in the wrong sub forum please move it.

Ok after a lot of research the past couple days I think I’m settled on a beginners rifle of the Ruger Performance Rifle in 308 (I already have an investment in 308 and really don’t want to get into another caliber at this point - in fact I might be doing some caliber consolidation this year).

So...for about $400-500 what’s the best optic that:

1. Fits my budget or is close
2. Is easy to learn
3. Will take me out to 1000 yards (I know there are opposing views as to 308 between 800 and 1000 but for the purposes of punching holes in paper or ringing steel it might be fun to challenge myself once I get better and understand the system and techniques better).

Thanks
 
#2
It's been a minute since I've shot .308 but you should be there with a scope that has 19 mils of travel like the Vortex Viper PST and a 20 MOA base. if thats not enough you might need a set of burris signature rings that you can add another +20.

I'd check out either the Vortex HST line, a used PST, or Athlon Optics which seems to be Today's low cost entry scope.

As far as learning I'm going to assume you're talking MRAD/MOA - the answer is either it's just different math. All of my scopes are in MRAD and that's what I know but it seems like MOA is more intuitive here in the states where we use inches and yards. 1MOA = 1.047 (I think) inches so you can round to 1" easily.

Keys: matching turrets (windage and elevation match mil/mil MOA/MOA)
As much internal travel as you can afford
zero stop. I have a couple scopes without and honestly they are a PITA unless you are always at the same distance
20 MOA base

ETA: Reticle choice is up to you but I'd stay away from mil dot and overly complicated reticles.
 
#3
It's been a minute since I've shot .308 but you should be there with a scope that has 19 mils of travel like the Vortex Viper PST and a 20 MOA base. if thats not enough you might need a set of burris signature rings that you can add another +20.

I'd check out either the Vortex HST line, a used PST, or Athlon Optics which seems to be Today's low cost entry scope.

As far as learning I'm going to assume you're talking MRAD/MOA - the answer is either it's just different math. All of my scopes are in MRAD and that's what I know but it seems like MOA is more intuitive here in the states where we use inches and yards. 1MOA = 1.047 (I think) inches so you can round to 1" easily.

Keys: matching turrets (windage and elevation match mil/mil MOA/MOA)
As much internal travel as you can afford
zero stop. I have a couple scopes without and honestly they are a PITA unless you are always at the same distance
20 MOA base

ETA: Reticle choice is up to you but I'd stay away from mil dot and overly complicated reticles.
Thanks Roach.

One question - I’ve seen some scopes that offer bullet compensation adjustment as opposed to MIL or MOA (I think) and are specific to the 308 round. Any knowledge of those?

As for my ease of learning - like anything else I’ll rather get extremely frustrated and move into a new hobby or extremely inquisitive and learn as much as possible.
 
#4
Scopes Ive seen with BDC are generally fixed power like an ACOG. Any scope with hash marks will serve the same purpose. The difference being is that you can chose to hold or dial. I generally dial in for elevation and hold for wind.

 

4x4Brit

Worktruck Driver
#5
My personal opinion, stay away from Bullet Compensation reticles for longer range shooting. Use a reticle with repeatable subtensions like the one Roach posted. MRAD or MOA is personal preference although dependent upon the click interval, MOA can be adjusted with finer increments. 1/4 MOA at 100 yards is .25ish of an inch. 1/10 Mil at 100 is .36 of an inch. Times that by 10 at 1000 and you can see the difference. Throw in a scope with 1/8 MOA adjustments and it becomes even finer.
 
#8
Ok guys seems the Vortex Viper HST in MOA might be the choice.

What about a mount and rings? Is there really a difference in quality and cost here?
 

tdyoung58

Active member
Forum Supporter
2019 Supporter
#9
But
Ok guys seems the Vortex Viper HST in MOA might be the choice.

What about a mount and rings? Is there really a difference in quality and cost here?
The best mount / rings you can afford ... You can get excellent ones under $150
 

4x4Brit

Worktruck Driver
#10
I have Nightforce bases and Seekins/Vortex precision rings on my guns (Seekins make them for Vortex and sell their own version). They’ve been very solid for me. Not the cheapest combo but buy once cry once.
 
#11
Ok guys seems the Vortex Viper HST in MOA might be the choice.

What about a mount and rings? Is there really a difference in quality and cost here?
I’m going to play devils advocate and say that at a certain point it doesn’t matter. I’ve purchased the seekins rings, badger ordnance bases, etc and they perform no better / worse then stuff a lot less expensive I.e $50 vortex rings. Keep in mind this is coming from a guy that will pay 5x more for an AR because it’s noveske. I like the Burris signature rings to add offset in the rings (more up travel). YMMV
 
#12
If there’s a Picatinny rail up top do I need a mount or just put the rings on the rail? Or does in matter only if the scope needs to be lifted to fit properly?

As soon as my SAR sells I’m gonna get the scope, mount/rings, and a bipod. Just picked up the rifle today.
 
#13
You can mount the rings directly to the rail. You'll need to either do some math do determine what height rings you need or google you rifle &scope and chances are someone has the same combo and already figured it out for you.
 

m.brd

Coyote Hunter
#15
Fitting within your budget: you have 2 choices

Vortex: I have an HST 4x16 on my AR10 (308) with a 20 MOA base and shoot 1K all the time; I use Mil/MIL because i was trained on it. nothing wrong with MOA if that is what you like

Athlon: i have several of there scope BTR Argos 6x24 IR Mil and Midas BTR 4.5X27 Mil; never any problems good class easy to go beyond 1K. once again place on 20MOA base. Midas mounted on a 260 rem beyond 1K all the time even been to the 1600M with that set up

I do not know if Ruger has a 20MOA base if it is a fixed base that is not removable, Look at the Burris MOA rings, I had to do this with my AR10 the MOA adjustment is in the rings

Best of luck with your set up: Remember there is nothing better than your own target DOPE, computer programs get you close, but your trigger time makes your DOPE book valuable
 
#17
Wow so it’s incredibly difficult to find one of the scopes mentioned above in town. Most dealers carry the lower end versions like the Diamondback. I was even hoping something would pop up here, but no luck.

Finally popped into Sportsman’s Warehouse and they have the Vortex PST Gen 1 on sale, so I have them bringing me in one in MOA (they only had MRAD locally).

Can’t wait to get a scope on this, get some better weather, and get this baby sighted in.

Thanks all
 

Kinoons

Obsessed Member
Forum Supporter
2019 Supporter
#18
I think that’s a solid choice for you. I have several vortex scopes, both the gen 1 PSTs and the HSTs and I’ve been very happy with them. I have picked up a few athlons as well; haven’t had the chance to shoot them but they seem solid.

The best way to get dead nuts on is to chrono the same load you’ll always shoot, get a table for the bullet drop, go shoot the at the ranges the table has on it (ie 100-1000 yards at 100 yard intervals) and then fine tune the table based on results. It can be done without the chrono but I find it saves some time and ammo as you’ll have a good idea where to start from.

The rough part is if you ever change loads you’ll have to start over. The question becomes do you zero with inexpensive FMJ because it’s cheap? Zero with the expensive stuff like gold medal match and always shoot that? Find a factory load your rifle likes and buy a crapload of the same lot since even that can cause variability? Or handload for a reduction in cost, keeping consistency, but an increase in time involved? Gotta love long range shooting.

Also with rings/bases, if you’re not going to have them lapped to fit the scope perfectly I have found that a thin layer of rubber cement on the inside of the rings will help eliminate the scope shifting within the rings. Not a huge issue on a .308, but was a (b****) on my .300 WSM until I read about the trick.
 
#20
The rough part is if you ever change loads you’ll have to start over. The question becomes do you zero with inexpensive FMJ because it’s cheap? Zero with the expensive stuff like gold medal match and always shoot that? Find a factory load your rifle likes and buy a crapload of the same lot since even that can cause variability? Or handload for a reduction in cost, keeping consistency, but an increase in time involved? Gotta love long range shooting.
How much of a difference will different loads make? Are we talking inches or 1/8’s of an inch?