Have reworked the action on my CZ-75 Compact, feels real good but am curious what the trigger pull is in both DA and SA. Anyone have a gauge and would check it for me? I will drive and bring it to you.
Sure, I'm up in Gardnerville. I have two digital and an old spring gauge too!
If you don't want to drive that far, you can do a good job of measuring it by bending a suitable coat hangar wire so the distal end is directly below the muzzle which is held pointing up. suspend a suitable container from the wire and add water 'till she goes click. Weigh the contraption on a regular scale.
Hints: Wrap the part of the wire that goes over the trigger (the only part that touches the gun) with tape. The trigger "hook" should pull at the center of the trigger. The pull should be parallel to the bore axis.
What a heck of an idea! That sounds like how we did things on the farm in Missouri. I have a postal scale I can weight it with accurately.
Came out with 2 lbs 14 oz on single action, 6 lbs 2 oz in double action.
For anyone interested:
Cajun Gun Works light trigger return spring, light firing pin block spring, 11.5 # hammer spring (may bump up to a 13# if primer strikes are light)
Hammer hooks angled just a tad to remove about 75% of camming from overly positive engagement, still is a bit positive.
Sear contact surface area increased slightly by stoning the sharp tip back a tad. About .025" wide, about .010" relief angle on the bottom edge.
Installed a shim on the right side between the sear housing and the frame, keeps the sear housing tight in the frame and prevents rotation in S/A.
Dropped down to a 14# recoil spring from a #16 as it's getting hard for me to work the slide.
Installed an early wide spur hammer from a Swiss AT84. Very hard, nice quality.
Detail truing and polishing of all action surfaces.
I'm thinking you meant to say "Sear contact surface area decreased slightly by stoning . . . etc". Which, BTW is typically done to reduce creep just before the break. You are correct, of course, reducing single action trigger pull on most guns, my SIG's included, involves reducing the positive sear engagement angle. You can prove this to yourself by watching the hammer from the side whilst slowly pulling the trigger. Due to the positive sear angle, the sear must "cam" out of the hammer's SA notch. To do so, the hammer must move back a small amount beyond full cock, which of course further compressing the mainspring. That further compression of the mainspring is what gives most all of the additional trigger pull to make what some call a "lawyer trigger". On SIG's Classic P's, the engagement is not deep due to design, so this angle is a bit difficult to measure, though it's around 16 degrees or so. Taking it to 7ish, makes for a very nice trigger, while still being safe. Difficult to adjust accurately freehand, I use Power Custom I and II stoning fixtures.
What a SIG Classic P (DA-SA) looks like inside the gun: