Boy Scout Auction Knife

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#21
finally able to get back to the shop today. So a little more progress got made.

First I found an 1/8" scrap piece of G10 and used it as a doubler plate. The doubler plate fills the gap between the work rest and the disc sander. Otherwise the bolster would slip in between their and get chewed up.





Here in the tapered tang drilling jig you can see the extreme angle and why I cant just drill my holes when everything is flat and expect them to line up later. All I'm doing here is clamping the scales to the tang and drilling my holes through the tang and out the scale to ensure they are angled correctly.



Checking the depth of the counter bore to ensure it's deep enough but not to deep.



Set my depth stop so when I drill it I know it will stop where I want it to.



Then drill my counter bores.



Bolt everything up and make sure it fits.



seems I got to make a least one bone head mistake per knife. Counter bored the thong hole before I realized it wasn't supposed to be counter bored. So tomorrow I have to buy a new piece of copper tubing and probably a carbide bit. No biggie. Just hate that I screwed up.

 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#22
My not so favorite part of knifemaking. Hand-sanding. Got everything lined up for hand sanding. The mister by kool mist keeps the blade from rusting and removes the sanding grit making the job a little easier and faster.



 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#23
Sorry for the lack of updates. Life got in the way again.

I use a cheap paper cutter to trim my sandpaper to 2.5" in width. Makes doing a lot of sandpaper strips easy for the hand sanding.



From 120 grit to 1000 grit all cut and ready to go. When I'm done with this knife I have two more at the top of the photo that need a quick sanding as well. I use a piece of scrap steel rounded on the spine and chisel ground one edge to wrap the sand paper around.



My back would kill me for days after a little hand sanding. I couldn't find a shop stool the right size for me. Luckily the casino's spend a lot of money on high quality stools for people to be nice and comfortable while feeding the one armed bandit. I bought this old stool at a local used furniture dealer and am grateful for it. So is my back.



I position the misters nozzle at the base of the grind so the water and air will blow the grit downward and off the blade.



I've got to go back to the disc sander to get the lump of steel at the top of the plunge out. Also to get the oops out of the bottom of the blade. A little to deep to get out hand sanding.



Always sand in a different direction than your last grit. This lets me know when all the scratches from the previous grit are out. Since I have to take it back to the disc sander I'm not going to try and get these out right now.

 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#25
I'm liking the updates. Do you think you will finish by the end of the week?
I don't have till the end of the week I have until tomorrow. You will have the knife, but the sheath and ferro rod will have to be completed later. Whoever buys the knife can bring it back to me to finish. I just simply don't have the time anymore to finish it all.
 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#26
So I figured I would skip the hand sanding as it isn't very sexy or fun. But I did manage to get it recorded for the tv show. Apparently they decided to throw another curve ball. It's happening now and I fly out soon.

Here is the knife now.



I had to use my old logo as with all the people here helping my new logo's got moved and no one can find them. It's great to have help, but you run into these things when new people are in your shop helping out.



Trimming up the handles so their isn't a whole lot in my way.



Shaping the bolsters.



Here the bolsters are roughed in.





And here it is all glued up. Tomorrow I'll finish the handle and turn it over. After that I have to fly to Brooklyn, NY to finish the filming. I have a few hours I have to film in the shop tomorrow then finish the knife.



I'm not sure who I'll leave the knife with or if you can come by tomorrow and pick it up before I fly out. The sheath and ferro rod will have to be completed after the auction. I'm sorry but this tv show deal really got it the way of my production.
 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#27
while I'm waiting for the copper bolsters to cool off I'll give you guys another quick update.

Using my portaband to cut off the excess pins and corby bolts.



Roughing in the handle.



Time for something else to go wrong. My small wheel came apart. Had a catastrophic belt failure. Came apart but the safety on the grinder to keep from getting hurt worked like it was supposed to. Had their camera's rolling and got a good shot of the belt failure. I can see the fake drama now. Did Jimmy just get killed by his deadly grinder only an insane person would use? Stay tuned after this commercial break. No biggie.



This is what it's supposed to look like. It shredded the sanding belt. I'll put t he bearing back in and run it gently till a new one arrives.



trying to get a good shot of the spine without all the glue and other stuff in the way.



A flaw. Apparently that little bit in the corner got dinged up and didn't fill in properly.



Another view of the tapered tang and liners.



Look at that beautiful ironwood.



Palm swell ground in.



Front angle ground in. The copper bolster got pretty hot so I'm waiting for it to cool so I can do the other side.

 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#28
last of the updates. Here's what the belt looked like that came apart on me.



Then I take it over to my knifemakers vise and start hand filing the handle.



Using a template to make the oval on the butt of the knife.



the finish pattern



the handle so far.



the top view.





It still needs a ton of work. Their is no way normally I would let this knife leave my shop like this. It still needs a day or two of work. Unfortunately I have to stop right now and finish film 3 or 4 hours of work for the tv show. Then be at the airport by 5. So I'm just out of time. So close but so far.

So lawsandguns I'm sorry but it's not going to get finished in time. I will leave it with someone I'll send you a PM with who they are and their address to look at it. I just don't feel right letting it go in its current condition. The best I can do for you is to point people to this thread. Sorry I failed you on this one.

That's it for tonight guys.
 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#29
Back from Brooklyn. Completely exhausted after nearly working 4 days non-stop. I'll pick up on the project tomorrow and have more to show. I got to see some of the un-edited footage. They showed me lighting a acetylene torch in HD and slow motion. Seeing the flame form in slow motion was really cool. They got a lot of footage like that for everyone so I expect it to be a popular show even though it is a caricature of bladesmithing and in absolutely nothing to do with reality. Do to my contract that is about all I can say about it.
 

MAC702

LEGEN...wait for it... DARY!
Forum Supporter
#30
...I just don't feel right letting it go in its current condition. The best I can do for you is to point people to this thread...
I know that I would bid my top dollar seeing these pictures and progress. What an artisan!
 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#31
Ok. Still exhausted from my working vacation and finally done filming the shop for them. So time to finish this knife up.

Time to square up the ferro rod.



Three sides were squared up the fourth side will be rounded.



The ferro rod will be the same ironwood burl with copper liners. Here it is roughed out and mocked up.

 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#32
Things certainly could have gone better. Laid out the drill hole for the ferro rod when they whole thing split in two right along the glue joint. Glad this happened in my shop and not out in the field. Right now it's an easy repair. Just clean everything back up. Throw the glue I used away and get some more and re-glue it.



First layer of tung oil is drying on the ironwood burl. I'll coat it a few times then finish sanding it wet in tung oil to 2000 grit and it will give it an extremely glossy finish.



I put a little on the ferro rod holder just so you can see the pattern better, and get an idea of what the finished knife will look like.

 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#33
was only able to get the ferro rod glued back up.



Had an unexpected visitor yesterday that took up all my time for the shop, then this morning a crew was in the industrial complex metering room and managed to make my shop loose power twice before they got done.

I hope to be completely done with this project this weekend so I can start filming for a kickstarter campaign to start the same time the tv show airs.
 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#34
After the ferro rod was dry. I squared it. Then set it up to drill the hole.





The ferro rod all glued up. It's 3/8" thick so It should last a long time.



Hand sanded the handle to 400 grit, and added another layer of tung oil. I'll do this several more times all the way to 1000 grit. Not a whole lot of excitement or updates for this part.



I need to keep coating the handle till all these natural checks fill in.

 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#35
Today I spent added coates of Tung oil to the handle and sanding it in wet with 1000 grit sand paper. Sanding it in wet allows the wood to absorb more oil quickly. Kind of like how some gunsmiths will steam a stock to open the pores. Steaming would probably work better but I'm not sure how it would work with the copper fittings so I'm just sanding it in.

Dipping my 1000 grit paper into the tung oil.



Here's a good shot of my ever increasing forehead while I sand in the oil wet onto the handle.



Not a good shot. But the tung oil is almost dry within 10 minutes in this shot. Normally it would take 4 to 6 hours for it to be this dry. That lets you know just how much of the oil wasn't getting absorbed by just dabbing the oil on.

 

SoLasVegas

Not a new member
Forum Supporter
#36
Nice looking work, there!

I wonder if an investment in a small vacuum chamber and pump (around $200 or less) would save you several hours of oiling on every knife. I do know they are essential for stabilizing some types of wood with resin before working them for small projects like pens and the like.
 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#37
SoLasVegas I normally buy stabilized wood that way to save time. They will stabilize Ironwood but ironwood is one of the few woods that does not benefit greatly from stabilization. Amboya burl, and other oily woods are problematic and weep the stabilization compounds weeks after they are done, so a tung oil finish is best for those woods. Knife and gun finishing supplies in Arizona is one of the best places to get your wood stabilized.
 

SoLasVegas

Not a new member
Forum Supporter
#38
I was thinking that putting the wood in your oil in the vacuum chamber might help you save time getting better oil penetration into the wood, similar to the way you would do if you were stabilizing it, just with oil instead of resin. Just a thought, but maybe it's not worth it.
 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#39
I was thinking that putting the wood in your oil in the vacuum chamber might help you save time getting better oil penetration into the wood, similar to the way you would do if you were stabilizing it, just with oil instead of resin. Just a thought, but maybe it's not worth it.
That sounds interesting. That might work.
 

jseymour

Obsessed Member
#40
Knife is 99.9% finished at this point. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

I have a full day in the shop tomorrow and expect the ferro rod 90% completed.