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Glock Polymer80

SL Dangerous

Zombies aren't real
Forum Supporter
#1
Has anyone purchased one of these? If so do you have any tips or the like?

I had looked into them in the past but figured even if I was thrifty it'd be equal to or more than just purchasing a new Glock. This morning my co-worker showed me his order receipt from Brownells. Being that I'd been interested, they were on sale and I found a $30 off plus free shipping code I bit. I got the G17 frame, a RMR slide and a Silencero threaded barrel.

I still need sights and both the lower and upper part kits. I'll eventually add an optic once it runs just fine.

If you have any tips on turning the frame into a 100%er I'd be much obliged.
I've watched a few YouTube videos of various methods of removing the polymer that needs to go buh bye so I'm unsure which one I'll use yet as this will be my first time dealing with a polymer 80%er.

Thanks!
 

Felid'Maximus

Beware of Cat
Forum Supporter
#3
I know a guy that put one together. He didn't have 100% reliability immediately after the build. First range day the gun wouldn't cycle except manually. A week later I saw him again and it was cycling but still not 100%. Been a few months since I saw him. Maybe it is 100% now.
 

Gullwing

1911 pistolsmith
Staff member
Moderator
#4
The 80% lower kit has a price of $150, midwayusa has sales where it is 50 so I got one. Have not done anything to it yet. But even at 50, add barrel $100, slide $200+, other parts 150ish... $500!!! yeah great deal. Now at 150... $600 for something that might work!
 
#5
Yeah but don't forget you save 25 dollars on a background check. Not to even mention you get to tell everyone you own a scary "ghost" gun.
 

Gullwing

1911 pistolsmith
Staff member
Moderator
#6
Yeah but don't forget you save 25 dollars on a background check. Not to even mention you get to tell everyone you own a scary "ghost" gun.
I have tried a few "60%" 1911 frames, yeah no you don't save $25 background when you destroy $30 frame blanks. :crap:
One of these days I need to try one again... :drunktalk:
 
#7
The 80% lower kit has a price of $150, midwayusa has sales where it is 50 so I got one. Have not done anything to it yet. But even at 50, add barrel $100, slide $200+, other parts 150ish... $500!!! yeah great deal. Now at 150... $600 for something that might work!
Yep bought one from Midway when they had one of those under $50 sales thinking it might be a cheap way to get a G17. I got the entire lower together for pretty cheap since I had a bunch of OEM Glock parts sitting around from upgrading my Glocks over the years. But now I’m stuck on the upper half. There is just no inexpensive way to do it. I don’t want to spend $500 on a gun that may not function right. So I’ll continue to look for that deal on a slide but meanwhile I got half a gun sitting there collecting dust. :001_rolleyes:
 

Teresa

uber Member
#8
Has anyone purchased one of these? If so do you have any tips or the like?

I had looked into them in the past but figured even if I was thrifty it'd be equal to or more than just purchasing a new Glock. This morning my co-worker showed me his order receipt from Brownells. Being that I'd been interested, they were on sale and I found a $30 off plus free shipping code I bit. I got the G17 frame, a RMR slide and a Silencero threaded barrel.

I still need sights and both the lower and upper part kits. I'll eventually add an optic once it runs just fine.

If you have any tips on turning the frame into a 100%er I'd be much obliged.
I've watched a few YouTube videos of various methods of removing the polymer that needs to go buh bye so I'm unsure which one I'll use yet as this will be my first time dealing with a polymer 80%er.

Thanks!
-First, it is no way cheaper, they end up being a lot more then buying a new glock in store, unless you got a lot of extra glock parts laying around. But the different colors make it look really cool! But it's really for people who have acquired a ton of extra glock parts over the years.

-Every frame takes a lot of TLC, and a lot of breakin, the newer one with rear metal rails works so much better, the plastic really wouldn't take lube.

-I've always done it with a dremel, not a drill press, no problem, just use a cutting tools for Pocket 1 & 2 removal.

-U'll need to shave off a bit of the top inside of where the locking block goes in, never got one in without doing that.

-Takes about an hour, hour and a half, most of the time is just the fitting.

-it tends to like pure glock OEM factory parts. So get it working with that before you move on to after market addons.

-V2's u'll have to buff down the top of front and rear rails, but becareful, it's a fit and finish to ur slide situation.

-The drill bits they include SUCK and they are way small, use ur own drill bits of Same size (I don't like that the new jig doesn't say drill bit size, just cryptic markings.

-Any questions, just ask, see the photo of how I took a V1 full pf940 80 lower and modified it to work with a Glock 27 slide (can't post it here, having issues posting photos). I like to do a lot of crazy mods (which is why I like doing it, using up all my old extra glock parts).
 
#9
Bought the Gen 1 Glock 17 model at Midway for $50.00 or so early in the year. Finished it with a Dremel and files in about 2 hours. Took about 20 rnds to loosen up and now shoots perfect. I'm happy with it and have put 400 or so rnds thru it.
 

HA-Y-N 702

Kanaka
Forum Supporter
#11
80% build

Has anyone purchased one of these? If so do you have any tips or the like?

I had looked into them in the past but figured even if I was thrifty it'd be equal to or more than just purchasing a new Glock. This morning my co-worker showed me his order receipt from Brownells. Being that I'd been interested, they were on sale and I found a $30 off plus free shipping code I bit. I got the G17 frame, a RMR slide and a Silencero threaded barrel.

I still need sights and both the lower and upper part kits. I'll eventually add an optic once it runs just fine.

If you have any tips on turning the frame into a 100%er I'd be much obliged.
I've watched a few YouTube videos of various methods of removing the polymer that needs to go buh bye so I'm unsure which one I'll use yet as this will be my first time dealing with a polymer 80%er.

Thanks!
So how is your project coming along? Is it finished?
 
#12
Not to hijack SL Dangerous’s thread but this is how far I got on mine. After a hour or so with a needle file I finally got the slide on. So far it feels like butter! Let’s hope it stays that way. I got to scrape up some more money to finish off the slide and get a barrel. But it’s getting there.

 
#13
I've put together three P80s so far: One PF940V2 "Glock 22", one PF940C "Glock 23", and one PF940C "Glock 19".

With the exception of the well-known issue fitting the locking block/rail into the PF940V2, the builds went well and shoot well.

This is the only one I have a shot of, the PF940V2 in gray, built with an all-factory G22 Gen 3 parts kit. I'm into it for $460 total.

I also shoot this one with a Double-Diamond 40-9 conversion barrel.
 

Attachments

SL Dangerous

Zombies aren't real
Forum Supporter
#14
The project has hit a snag. I was all gung ho into it with my nippers, dremel, files and sandpaper and feel I did an A- job on removing the polymer that needed to be removed. I took my time and did it over about a week long span.

The Glock OEM lower parts and slide parts went in just fine. My problem is that the slide won't go on. I took the barrel and recoil spring/guide rod out and it still won't go on. I cannot see any scuff marks or anything of the like on the slide showing where it's hitting.

My co-worker found out from Polymer80 that the rear rail doo hickeys that were included with both of our kits were from a bad batch that was out of spec. Polymer80 promptly shipped me a new one and still no love.

Tomorrow I'm sending it home with him to see if his G22 slide goes on. If it does then I know it's a slide issue though I cannot find any burring or anything on it. I've run Q tips everywhere looking for a burr, snag, etc and no cotton has been left behind.

If his slide doesn't go on I'll need to have a new frame sent to me and start all over. Yay!

trdlasvegas - no worries that looks purdy!
 

Teresa

uber Member
#15
The project has hit a snag. I was all gung ho into it with my nippers, dremel, files and sandpaper and feel I did an A- job on removing the polymer that needed to be removed. I took my time and did it over about a week long span.

The Glock OEM lower parts and slide parts went in just fine. My problem is that the slide won't go on. I took the barrel and recoil spring/guide rod out and it still won't go on. I cannot see any scuff marks or anything of the like on the slide showing where it's hitting.

My co-worker found out from Polymer80 that the rear rail doo hickeys that were included with both of our kits were from a bad batch that was out of spec. Polymer80 promptly shipped me a new one and still no love.

Tomorrow I'm sending it home with him to see if his G22 slide goes on. If it does then I know it's a slide issue though I cannot find any burring or anything on it. I've run Q tips everywhere looking for a burr, snag, etc and no cotton has been left behind.

If his slide doesn't go on I'll need to have a new frame sent to me and start all over. Yay!

trdlasvegas - no worries that looks purdy!
Sometime u need to polish it, grind it down a bit. Try taking out the trigger housing and put the rails back in and try to put the slide on backwards and see if it will slide on or if the back rails are the issue.
 

r08ert209cali

Gun freak # 102,000,000,1
#18
Built a gen one last year as a 19. Finished it up a few weeks ago. Was actually a nice shooter.
I made some mods to the grip area to make it fit my hand better. Added some stippling as well.
Plan to cerekote it soon.
 

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SL Dangerous

Zombies aren't real
Forum Supporter
#19
Pardon my delay - been unable to look at it too much nor post. I have 100% determined it is the rear rail. Polymer80 had already sent me a rear rail and both are too wide by (haven't measured it yet with the caliper I bought) what I would presume to be several hundreds of an inch on each side. I'm going to take the trigger housing assembly out as well as the rail and see if I can fiddle with them enough without compromising the integrity in order to make it fit. If not it'll have to be a frame issue and I'll need to contact them for a RMA and start from scratch!