Glock Polymer80

Sledge

stuck in the 80's
#21
I watched about 10 videos on YouTube before taking on this project and took a little of something from about 5 videos when completing it. One thing that isn't in the Poly80 instructions i did was sand the top of the front rails with 2k grit paper and then polish it with a dremel. When I first put the slide on it was tight. I racked the slide about 100 times then wiped it down and lubed it. There seemed to be something black rubbing off, the coating from the slide maybe. It loosened up a lot. Took it to the range shortly after and shot 100rds through. I was pleased. And today took it back to the range for another 100 and ran great. I might have gotten lucky cause with my luck I'm just happy it didn't blow up in my face :shocked:
 

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SL Dangerous

Zombies aren't real
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#22
I haven't fiddled with mine in about a month. It won't reliably go into battery enough for me to take it out for a test firing (I'm afflicted with the fear of it blowing up in my face too). A wee bit more fine sanding/Dremel polishing is probably all it needs.

I need to clean pew pews from this mornings round of lead therapy so after that I might as well run to Home Depot or Lowe's for some super duper fine sandpaper and get back to it!
 
#23
Actually I am running into a problem with mine but I’m sure I know what it is and will be solved later this week. I noticed the trigger reset is not working correctly. After pressing the trigger and racking the slide, letting go of the trigger does not reset it. I took it all apart, smoothed out a lot of surfaces that I thought was binding it up. Lubed it up and same thing. Compared it to my G27, and all seemed Ok. Studied a few videos and then it came to me. The firing pin pushes that crucifix piece of metal when the slide goes back to battery. However I don’t have a firing pin channel liner in my slide (back order from Midway) so the firing pin is slipping over the top of that crucifix and not resetting the trigger.
I ordered one on eBay this weekend and that should remedy the situation. Funny how all of these little parts are crucial to the operation of the firearm. :frown2:

The good side of this is my slide is now operating even smoother than before!
 
#25
I tried one of the compact builds too and could never get it to work right. Changed out parts (from Polymer 80 and the Glock parts), polished rails, smoothed out polymer, checked and checked, over and over again with different combinations of parts, etc. just wouldnt ever go fully into battery without help, and it would still dry fire while slightly out of battery. Because of this I never even tried to put any rounds through it...I had no confidence it would work so I just gave up. Now I'm stuck with a $150 piece of plastic that I cant do anything with which is the real bummer. Live and learn...

*The only positive that came out of this is I can detail strip and reassemble a Glock 19 in my sleep now...so thats something.
 
#26
Smoothen and round the corner a bit at the rear side of the locking block where it slopes down (circled in red). In my experience with my friends P80 builds, this is where it usually hang. And because it is sharp, this is also the part that gouges the barrel. Most of the time, after we made this area smooth the pistol runs better.
 
#27
BTW, I forgot to add. My build is using a 4 pound firing pin spring when i tested it for 600 rounds and didn't experience any failures. With that spring, my trigger pull weight is about 3-3.25 pounds and since I am planning to carry it, I wanted to have at least a 4 pound trigger pull weight. I changed the firing pin spring to a 6 pound one and noticed that the slide hang a bit but only if I release the slide very slowly. Only for a second and then goes fully into battery. Maybe something to consider and check for slide hang-up. I am very sure the slide will not hang firing it, but still need to fully test it with this heavy firing pin spring.