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Reloading .50 Action Express







MAC702

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#21
Seat just long enough to still load in the magazine, and then verify that it drops in the chamber with no resistance. If you are shorter than the recipe, reduce charge.
 

Dr. Marneaus

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#22
Seat just long enough to still load in the magazine, and then verify that it drops in the chamber with no resistance. If you are shorter than the recipe, reduce charge.
I followed the COAL for the same weight bullet. My bullet sits less deep into the case than the recipe bullet so I kept the charge the same, and started at the minimum.

These are plated anyway so if the gun cycles fine I will not be going any higher than the minimum load because that’s even potentially pushing it for a plated bullet, at 1300fps

they drop on and headspace on the rim with no resistance. I measured Bullet jump at around .040” so if everything cycles I think we’ll be fine.
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Dr. Marneaus

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#23
So, I'm thinking I will need to test one of these plated rounds to see if the plating separates or anything.

I set my taper crimp at somewhere around .001 to .002 less than the diameter of the brass further down where the base of the bullet is. No idea if thats too much or too little. I'm new to taper crimps.


Anybody wanna guess how many water jugs a 325gr slug travelling at 1300fps will go through? I have no clue. I know the 300gr HPs will go through 5, but this isnt gonna expand.
 

Bumper

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#24
Haven't a clue, but more jugs is better. Interesting and looking forward to your results.

However, I think I'll be sticking with 10mm for my max pistol round.
 

Dr. Marneaus

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#26
Could use some advice since I’m new to .50ae and taper crimps.

Loaded some test rounds, using stating load data. 29.4gr of H110. Wanted to test to make sure I wasn’t damaging or burning through the plating on my bullets, also wanted to test if the lighter loads would still cycle. I only have WLP primers, so no SPECIFICALLY magnum primers but WLP states for standard and magnum. Loaded with H110. Anyway.


Bullets were fine I recovered some from an ultra high tech projectile stoppage system (sand bags). No separation no issue with the plating. Could see the crimp but it wasn’t biting through the jacket. Good to go there. However I did have a good amount of Unburnt powder in the chamber and hitting me in the face, brass is fairly dirty, and also I had 2 of the 7 rounds I kept in the magazines have the bullet move inward slightly (due to recoil I assume). One moved inward only .003 and one moved .010. The other 5 bullets that we’re kept in the magazine for several shots, including one that was chambered, were still in spec. Otherwise gun cycles fine and I hit where I aimed. So my issues are with unburned power and some bullets seating themselves slightly further.

At this juncture since I didn’t damage the plating with my taper crimp I assume the best course of action would be to slightly tighten my crimp to attempt to help with the unburnt powder as well as the setback? Being that these are plated bullets I didn’t crimp very much. Only about .001 taper. From my understanding a tighter crimp will allow pressure to build a LITTLE longer and help burn powder.

I also have been told H110 tends to like a slightly more full cartridge? I could work up a little higher in powder charge and see if that helps but the goal here is plinking rounds.

Thoughts?


PS: I’ll keep trying to find actual magnum primers which should help with the powder too, but in the meantime I would hope I can get these to work a little better.

PPS: gun had noticeably less recoil. It was very pleasant to shoot with these 1300fps rounds.

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Bumper

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#27
My Dillon 650 is set up for 40, the Super 1050 is for .223, and I use an old single stage press for 45-70 etc. My parsimonious mind is set up for 12.5 cents a round for 40* . . . more'n that, I go into the shakes.

*That is with components from my current store, which was bought years ago at now unbelievable prices. Sadly nothing to do with replacement cost (if and when it comes to that). A buck a round and I'd have to add a defibrillator to my range bag.
 

Bumper

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#28
I'm no reloading pro, though I've been at it off & on since the mid '70's. You probably know this, but the dirty cases, stuff in the face, and still rounded primer edges, are all signs of low pressure. Do you have a chrono to check if you can bump it up a bit and still keep the plated bullets happy?
 
#29
You don't want to ever down-load 110

A CCI 350 would be good, but that WLR should be ok.

Heavier bullet is better bullet for this cartridge with that powder.

I'll message you
 

Dr. Marneaus

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#30
I'm no reloading pro, though I've been at it off & on since the mid '70's. You probably know this, but the dirty cases, stuff in the face, and still rounded primer edges, are all signs of low pressure. Do you have a chrono to check if you can bump it up a bit and still keep the plated bullets happy?
I should be able to. The plating looked totally fine.
 

Dr. Marneaus

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#31
You don't want to ever down-load 110

A CCI 350 would be good, but that WLR should be ok.

Heavier bullet is better bullet for this cartridge with that powder.

I'll message you
Cool cool. I didn’t actually down Load, just used the minimum starting load. Actually I used .1gr more than minimum. 29.5gr. Max Load is stated as 32.6 so I can definitely bump up some as long as the plating doesn’t get screwy.

Also this is where my question of having extra space behind the bullet came in, with my Bulleits that are .013” shorter than the Bullets used in the data.
 

Dr. Marneaus

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#32
So from my basic research I’m reading that H110 definitely likes to be really close to the bullet. People seem to say that max, or close to max loads work a lot better.

I loaded up a few slightly more spicy rounds. All load data im seeing says a max of 32.6 grains so I loaded up to 32. From some rough measurements this should put the projectile about LESS THAN .010 off the powder, probably closer to .005”. I’ll see if these do any better.

I also slightly tightened the crimp because of the bullets moving back. Will double check that as well.
 
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Dr. Marneaus

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#33
Okay. Progress! 2 out of 3 ain’t bad.

Tested the 32gr loads zero issues with the plating. These were probably moving in the range of 1400FPS so that’s good to know.

Also, much cleaner burn. Still not perfect but there was less unburnt powder after 7 rounds of the new load then there was after 4 rounds of the older load. But still SOME. Either way that’s good.

What isn’t good, is that even with my adjusted crimp, the projectiles are still receding and seating deeper in the magazine under recoil. I checked two from the hotter loads and they had set themselves back from 1.575” to 1.543” so that’s fairly significant it seems. .032?

So, do I just crimp a bit more? These bullets don’t have a cannelure. I was measuring my taper crimp at .002” different from the thickness of the casing. I don’t know how much mouth tension these things need or if that even matters, but the case expands about .002-.003 with the bullet in it vs an empty sized case.

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Dr. Marneaus

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#34
So i applied a heavier taper crimp, and I am still able to push the bullet into the case by putting the ammo nose down on the benchapplying some pretty solid pressure. I tried doing this withthe Hornady factory ammo I have, and was unable to causethebullet to seat deeper with similart amounts of pressure.

My projectiles measure .498 or .499, which is the same as the Speer projectiles I have on hand, and I was crimping PRETTY DANG SOLIDLY as you can see in the pic.

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What gives?
 

MAC702

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#35
I had to scroll all the way up to remember these are plated bullets. They just don't take a crimp well. I've stopped using them for everything. I'd rather shoot plain lead or real jacketed.

And if you need a good crimp, you use a cannelure.

I know the Hornady is a real jacket. Does it have a cannelure also?
 

Dr. Marneaus

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#36
I had to scroll all the way up to remember these are plated bullets. They just don't take a crimp well. I've stopped using them for everything. I'd rather shoot plain lead or real jacketed.

And if you need a good crimp, you use a cannelure.

I know the Hornady is a real jacket. Does it have a cannelure also?
You know, I thought about that, but I havent had any issues in the past and clearly the plating on these bullets seems nice and thicc. So I got to thinking.


I pulled the bullets from the offencing "easy to push in" cases.

I grabbed a different headstamped sized but non expanded case and seated a bullet to the right depth, then crimped it. Then I tried to over seat it. I put it nose down on the bench and shoved and pushed with ALOT of my weight but I couldn't get it to move inward. Huh. Okay. So maybe its the expansion die opening the case up too much?

Ran another new case through the expander. Seated it, crimped it. Solid as a rock.

Maybe I chamfered too heavy and the case couldn't bite the bullet? Grabbed a new one, chamfered it, ran it through the expander, seated it, crimped it. Solid as a rock.

Okay. Maybe its these hornady cases vs the starline? Grabbed some of the cases I just pulled apart, didnt expand, seated the bullet, crimped it, solid.

Uh. Okay. Expanded a few of the pulled apart cases. Seated, crimped. Solid. Pushing with a lot of force, bullet didnt move.


Hmmmmm. So I'm seating and crimping....in two separate operations...... ah-ha! Quick google search showed a lot of people on forums mentioning that they seat and crimp separately due to some issues. others saying "I know alot of people who use specific crimp dies or who crimp in a separate step from seating, but I don't."

So, I took 4 more cases that were from the batch I pulled apart. So these had already been expanded, already been seated and crimped. I expanded them again. I seated the bullets, and I backed off my crimp die a little at a time. Tested each one with less and less crimp. I was able to back the crimp up about half a turn of the die, while seating and crimping separately, and I STILL cannot push the bullet in with a bunch of my weight on it.

In like 10 dummy loads where I was seating and crimping separately, I wasn't even able to replicate the easy-pushing that I just experienced on literally the same 10 cases.


Soooooooo. Looks like I'll just be seating and crimping separately.
 

Dr. Marneaus

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#40
now that I have a really good tight crimp is there any reason to back my load up and start again? Or should it be fine basically anywhere within the min-max range?