Ecu flashing/reprogram

[Siskin]

When I moved here 2 years ago my 2005 Tundra had several codes and I could not get it smoged. So over time I have managed to fix all the issues except for 1 . The dreaded P2610 which has to do with the engine off timer. The truck did sit for about a year without being moved. Over the last 2 months I have researched everything I could find . The conclusion is the the ECU needs to to be flashed/reprogrammed. I could get one from the Dealer for over $1000 plus the reprograming fee or a refurbished one from the Internet( crap shoot). My question is. Are there any members here who have the ability or the time at some point to help out with flashing/reprograming/update. Thanks for talking the time for reading this.

 

[Maxcarp]

The 2610 code may not be an emissions related fault code,which would mean the truck will pass an emissions test.It has been awhile since I was in the smog business but I do remember this little tidbit from my time at tech school.Ideally it would be best to fix this issue and not have to worry about it.What I would do is plug in a code scanner into the vehicle,clear the codes and drive the vehicle until all the emissions related monitors are reset.{O2,Cat,EGR and Evap}If all these monitors are reset and don`t trigger any fault codes,then the vehicle should be able to pass an emissions test.The question is when the 2610 fault code will pop up.If it takes a long time then you should be able to pass and get your truck registered.If it pops up immediately...well things are dicey.

 

[Tom702]

Hopefully you can get the ECU issue resolved here.
I've bought a couple ecu's from Flagship 1 in the past, and they actually worked for me. It doesn't look like they are the best, but they were priced right and got my cars back on the road.

 

[Siskin]

Thing is the check engine light comes on with the P 2610 code just before I can complete my drive cycles. Yesterday I drove 72 miles with only 1 monitor still incomplete/pending. Thought I was home free. Not sure if it would pass smog with 1 monitor incomplete. I have looked into Flagship. I was just hoping that a member here has the ability to flash the thing. People out here have all kinds of neat tools in their home shops. Long gone are the days of somebody knowing A Guy.😁.

 

[Siskin]

Oh and I'm not in any real hurry. I have a 2015 Tundra as my daily driver.

 

[Poor Shooter]

1 incomplete should pass

 

[Siskin]

Ok just did another run I'm at 58 miles with 2 incomplete should I risk the smog check?

 

[Poor Shooter]

2 incomplete no, it won’t pass. Run 65 mph for 7 min straight on cruise control. So only place you can do that is 15 south from st rose to jean. Then check again.

 

[Siskin]

Ok thanks I'll try that one I'm in Summerlin. I'll get on the 95 North towards Cold Creek. Might even do some shooting 😁

 

[bigblue37]

The dealer flashed the TCU in my wife’s highlander to fix a trans shifting issue. Cost me $200, but it was quicker than buying the software. You can get software for your pc to do it yourself, but I wouldn’t recommend it if you don’t know what you’re doing.

 

[Siskin]

Your right I have know idea what I would be doing. I am by no means a Auto technician. I am really just starting to learn out of necessary and being stubborn 🤔

 

[Coup d'etat]

You can try local junkyards. Pick A Part may possibly have a 2005 Toyota you could pull the ECU from. Make sure same year, engine, and transmission. Shouldn't cost more than $50 with a warranty.

 

[Siskin]

Funny you say that. I've been going there for the past 4 months. Got parts from Sequoia's older Tundra's and even some Highlander's. As far as an ECU . It has to be from a 2005 Double Cab 4.7 2 wheel drive or else the factory settings would be all off . Or so I have been told . That is why I am looking to see if a member here has the tool and time to flash/reprogram my original ECU.

 

[QuazDawg]

I think it’s changed now to all readiness monitors must be complete, but it used to be 1996-2000 model years were allowed 2 not ready and 2001-present were allowed 1. Doing an actual obd2 drive cycle will help speed up the process vs just driving around. I had to do this a few years ago to be able to pass. Luckily I was allowed 2 monitors to not be ready and my code at that time was specific to the evap monitor, which usually always sets last.

The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another).

NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.

3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.

OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.

5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.

6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.

OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.

7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.

I had to do this out by blue diamond in the middle of the night on a weekday

 

[Siskin]

I think it’s changed now to all readiness monitors must be complete, but it used to be 1996-2000 model years were allowed 2 not ready and 2001-present were allowed 1. Doing an actual obd2 drive cycle will help speed up the process vs just driving around. I had to do this a few years ago to be able to pass. Luckily I was allowed 2 monitors to not be ready and my code at that time was specific to the evap monitor, which usually always sets last.

The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another).

NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.

3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.

OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.

5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.

6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.

OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.

7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.

I had to do this out by blue diamond in the middle of the night on a weekday

Damm no wonder they do such a thing on a Dyno. Thanks for all the help. But still looking to see if someone is willing to Flash me(easy gentleman). Reason being even if I do get the truck ready for smog I know the P 2610 will eventually show up. This is the El cheapo scan tool that my neighbor let me use. It's ok but only for showing and clearing codes

 

[Harley]

I run a scangauge 3 in my truck. It shows the monitor status for everything. It shows a lot of other realtime data and also shows and resets the codes. Highly recommend if you always want to keep track of everything.

 

[MAC702]

I run a scangauge 3 in my truck. It shows the monitor status for everything. It shows a lot of other realtime data and also shows and resets the codes. Highly recommend if you always want to keep track of everything.

Just don't park it for 2 months (easy to do in a Chevy) or the battery will die.

 

[Siskin]

I run a scangauge 3 in my truck. It shows the monitor status for everything. It shows a lot of other realtime data and also shows and resets the codes. Highly recommend if you always want to keep track of everything.

I'll look into that. Ok off to work
I'll try using the instructions on how to do a drive cycle tomorrow. Still asking if someone can flash me 😁( ECU)

 

[Harley]

Just don't park it for 2 months (easy to do in a Chevy) or the battery will die.

Thats only because I left it hooked up AND I didn’t turn off the secondary battery voltage gauge in the center console.

 

[Siskin]

Just don't park it for 2 months (easy to do in a Chevy) or the battery will die.

Well mine sat for almost a year. Maybe that is the whole issue